Anyway, here's the deal. If you start up your KLR 650 and the green light is on telling you it's in neutral then they say you should while it's in neutral pull your clutch in and out several times while revving the engine. Remember, only do this in neutral or else you might have problems depending upon what you are doing.
But, this is what they say to do to clear your clutch from sticking.
Some guy thought it was the kick stand mechanism that shuts off the engine when you put down the kick stand. When the kick stand is down though you can still start it. But, you cannot have it running and put the kick stand down without killing the engine. So, some issues people might be having with that mechanism too. But, I'm thinking my problem is the clutch instead.
So, I put new distilled water in my battery because it was sort of dried up from not being used (don't burn holes through your shirt or pants while doing this. In the past I have when I first changed batteries and ruined a nice flannel shirt I liked.
So, be really careful of your eyes when working on your battery or electric cables for battery acid, wearing glasses or goggles is good and washing your hands as soon as you walk away from your bike and never touching your eyes while doing this work is good too.
Then I charged up my battery with a trickle charger. I really love trickle chargers which are really good for weekend riders when your bike isn't being used much during the week which is a slow charging device that you plug in. Just get a kit and install the receiving wires on your bike to the battery and leave the lead out so you can trickle charge it any time. Then I tuck in the lead wires somewhere under the plastic piece covering the battery somewhere and I'm okay to ride.
Here's another thought if you wear progressive lenses, I find it's not safe to ride a motorcycle while wearing them because they mess up your depth perception. So, I take mine off only for riding a motorcycle so I don't die. But, I'm not required to wear glasses for driving a car either so this is a part of it. I just like to be able to read the signs far away and to see children and people and animals before I hit them by accident. But, that's just me. But, if I wear progressive lenses while riding a motorcycle I might not survive it because of balance and depth perception.
Here's some info for you if you want:
Begin quote from:
https://www.klrforum.com/2008-klr650-wrenching-mod-questions/49497-stalls-lurches-when-putting-gear.html
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Neutral
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Huntington Beach, CA
Posts: 9
Stalls and Lurches When Putting In Gear
I have a 2009 KLR with 6k miles. After starting the bike up and letting it run for a while it stalls and lurches forward when placing the bike in gear. Every thing I read suggested the problem could be the side stand switch. I replaced the switch while having the bike jacked up to the point the rear wheel was off the ground. While still jacked up, I started the bike and placed it in gear. Everything worked great. However, once the bike was off the jack the problem persisted.
In short, as long as the rear wheel was not touching the ground everything was great. But once the tires were on the ground the bike stalled and lurched forward when placed in gear. So the side stand switch was not the problem... any suggestions?
In short, as long as the rear wheel was not touching the ground everything was great. But once the tires were on the ground the bike stalled and lurched forward when placed in gear. So the side stand switch was not the problem... any suggestions?
OverDrive
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: NW MO
Posts: 5,406
If it only does this the first time you put it into first gear after it's been sitting, it's your clutch plates sticking together.
Before you put it into first gear, try simultaneously pulling in on the clutch and blipping the throttle while it's in neutral. This should serve to mostly release the clutch plates so the lurch isn't so jarring. It doesn't lurch when it's on the stand because the rear wheel isn't driving against anything.
Sometimes I use the afore-mentioned procedure. Sometimes I just rev it up, kick it into first and hang on.
Before you put it into first gear, try simultaneously pulling in on the clutch and blipping the throttle while it's in neutral. This should serve to mostly release the clutch plates so the lurch isn't so jarring. It doesn't lurch when it's on the stand because the rear wheel isn't driving against anything.
Sometimes I use the afore-mentioned procedure. Sometimes I just rev it up, kick it into first and hang on.
OverDrive
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Lander, Wyoming
Posts: 6,178
Quote:
Sometimes I use the afore-mentioned procedure. Sometimes I just rev it up, kick it into first and hang on.
HB_ART,
Proper procedure as planalp 1st suggested.
But I'll modify a smidge.
Squeeze and HOLD the clutch lever. Don't 'milk it'. Blip the throttle 3 times, idle to 2000-2500 rpm.
Let return to idle, snick it smoothly into gear. Never stomp on a gear pedal (hard on other parts).
Check lever / cable slack at 1/16th to 1/8th inch.
pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!
Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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