An Old Surfer?

I tell people sometimes that my feet are too big now (size 15) partly because I surfed when I was young. We usually didn't wear wet suits then much unless it was really cold. We just braved the elements as they were. We were macho I guess. It was 1962 to 1969 but there were still surfers older than us who rode the really old wooden boards out of Hawaii:

I mostly surfed then on Bing and Hobie Surfboards that were 10 foot 2 to 10 foot 4 inches in length. At age 16 I bought a 1956 Ford STationwagon that I dubbed my "Surf Wagon" that could accommodate boards this long if they hung out the back a little with the back seats down and the hatch on the back left open. 

This is kind of what the boards I rented and later owned looked like then. At one point just before my best friend bought his 1951 Red Convertible Ford we drove to the beach from Glendale in his new car with the board stuck under the front seats sticking straight up into the air and no one stopped us for that which I thought sort of remarkable at the time. However, mostly during the 1960s surfers were well thought of because at least we weren't joining gangs and killing each other, we were doing something constructive with our time and staying happy and healthy then in Los Angeles area of California.

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