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What a hunter-gatherer diet does to the body in just three days
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Tim Spector is professor of genetic epidemiology at King's College London. The views expressed in this commentary are solely those of the writer. CNN is showcasing the work of The Conversation, a collaboration between journalists and academics to provide news analysis and commentary. The content is produced solely by The Conversation.
(CNN)Mounting
evidence suggests that the richer and more diverse the community of
microbes in your gut the lower your risk of disease. Diet is key to
maintaining diversity and was strikingly demonstrated when an undergrad
student went on a McDonald's diet for ten days and after just four days experienced a significant drop in the number of beneficial microbes.
Similar results have been demonstrated in a number of larger human and animal studies.
Your gut microbiome is a vast community of trillions of bacteria that has a major influence
on your metabolism, immune system and mood. These bacteria and fungi
inhabit every nook and cranny of your gastrointestinal tract, with most
of this 1kg to 2kg "microbe organ" sited in your colon (the main bit of
your large intestine).
We
tend to see the biggest diet-related shifts in microbes in people who
are unhealthy with a low-diversity unstable microbiome. What we didn't
know is whether a healthy stable gut microbiome could be improved in
just a few days. The chance to test this in an unusual way came when my
colleague Jeff Leach invited
me on a field trip to Tanzania, where he has been living and working
among the Hadza, one of the last remaining hunter-gatherer groups in all
of Africa.
My microbiome is pretty healthy nowadays and, among the first hundred samples we tested as part of the MapMyGut
project, I had the best gut diversity -- our best overall measure of
gut health, reflecting the number and richness of different species.
High diversity is associated with a low risk of obesity and many
diseases. The Hadza have a diversity that is one of the richest on the planet.
The
research plan was devised by Jeff who suggested I should have an
intensive three days of eating like a hunter gatherer during my stay at
his research camp. I would measure my gut microbes before heading to
Tanzania, during my stay with the Hadza, and after my return to the UK. I
was also not allowed to wash or use alcohol swabs and I was expected to
hunt and forage with the Hadza as much as possible -- including coming
in contact with the odd Hadza baby and baboon poo lying about.
To help us record the trip I was accompanied by Dan Saladino, the intrepid presenter and producer of BBC Radio 4's The Food Programme, who was preparing a Hadza microbe special.
After
a long tiring flight to Mount Kilimanjaro Airport in Tanzania, we
stayed overnight in Arusha, a city in the north of the country. Before
setting off the next morning, I produced my baseline poo sample.
After
an eight-hour journey in a Land Rover over bumpy tracks, we arrived.
Jeff beckoned us to the top of a huge rock to witness the most amazing
sunset over Lake Eyasi. Here, within a stones throw of the famous fossil
site of Olduvai Gorge and with the stunning plains of the Serengeti in
the distance, Jeff explained that we were never going to be closer to
home as a member of the genus Homo, than where we were standing at that
moment.
The million-year-old diet
The
Hadza seek out the same animals and plants that humans have hunted and
gathered for millions of years. Importantly, the human-microbe tango
that played out here for aeons probably shaped aspects of our immune
system and made us who we are today. The significance of being in
Hadza-land was not lost on me.
Unlike
the Hadza, who sleep around the fire or in grass huts, I was given a
tent and told to zip it up tight as there were scorpions and snakes
about. I had to be careful where I stepped if I needed a nocturnal pee.
After an interesting but restless night's sleep, a large pile of baobab
pods had been collected for my breakfast.
The
baobab fruit is the staple of the Hadza diet, packed with vitamins, fat
in the seeds, and, of course, significant amounts of fibre. We were
surrounded by baobab trees stretching in the distance as far as I could
see. Baobab fruit have a hard coconut-like shell that cracks easily to
reveal a chalky flesh around a large, fat-rich seed. The high levels of
vitamin C provided an unexpected citrus tang.
The
Hadza mixed the chalky bits with water and whisked it vigorously for
two to three minutes with a stick until it was a thick, milky porridge
that was filtered -- somewhat -- into a mug for my breakfast. It was
surprisingly pleasant and refreshing. As I wasn't sure what else I would
be eating on my first day, I drank two mugs and suddenly felt very
full.
My next snacks were the wild
berries on many of the trees surrounding the camp -- the commonest were
small Kongorobi berries. These refreshing and slightly sweet berries
have 20 times the fibre and polyphenols compared with cultivated berries
-- powerful fuel for my gut microbiome. I had a late lunch of a few
high-fibre tubers dug up with a sharp stick by the female foragers and
tossed on the fire. These were more effort to eat - like tough, earthy
celery. I didn't go for seconds or feel hungry, probably because of my
high-fibre breakfast. No one seemed concerned about dinner.
A
few hours later we were asked to join a hunting party to track down
porcupine -- a rare delicacy. Even Jeff hadn't tasted this creature in
his four years of field work.
Two
20kg nocturnal porcupines had been tracked to their tunnel system in a
termite mound. After several hours of digging and tunnelling --
carefully avoiding the razor-sharp spines -- two porcupines were
eventually speared and thrown to the surface. A fire was lit. The
spines, skin and valuable organs were expertly dissected and the heart,
lung and liver cooked and eaten straight away.
The
rest of the fatty carcass was taken back to camp for communal eating.
It tasted much like suckling pig. We had a similar menu the next two
days, with the main dishes including hyrax -- a strange furry
guinea-pig-like hoofed animal, weighing about 4kg -- a relative of the
elephant, of all creatures.
Harvested
high from a baobab tree, our dessert was the best golden orange honey I
could ever imagine -- with the bonus of honeycomb full of fat and
protein from the larvae. The combination of fat and sugars made our
dessert the most energy-dense food found anywhere in nature and may have
competed with fire in terms of its evolutionary importance.
In
Hadza-land nothing is wasted or killed unnecessarily, but they eat an
amazing variety of plant and animal species (around 600, most of which
are birds) compared with us in the West. My other lasting impression was
how little time they spent getting food. It appeared as though it took
just a few hours a day -- as simple as going round a large supermarket.
Any direction you walked there was food -- above, on and below ground.
Massive increase in microbiome diversity
Twenty-four
hours later Dan and I were back in London, him with his precious audio
tapes and me with my cherished poo samples. After producing a few more, I
sent them to the lab for testing.
The
results showed clear differences between my starting sample and after
three days of my forager diet. The good news was my gut microbal
diversity increased a stunning 20%, including some totally novel African
microbes, such as those of the phylum Synergistetes.
The
bad news was, after a few days, my gut microbes had virtually returned
to where they were before the trip. But we had learnt something
important. However good your diet and gut health, it is not nearly as
good as our ancestors'. Everyone should make the effort to improve their
gut health by re-wilding
their diet and lifestyle. Being more adventurous in your normal cuisine
plus reconnecting with nature and its associated microbial life, may be
what we all need.
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