What I mean by this is in order to surf waves 50 to 100 feet tall without dying or being seriously injured you have to have the correct abilities first and then you have to be a certain type of person who wants to take those kinds of risks for whatever the reason. In my case I was always an "Explorer". I remember running away from home at age 3 or 4 and being stung by hornets on my Grandfather's 2 1/2 acre parcel of Land in Lake Forest Park then around 1951 to 1952.
I didn't make it to my little girlfriend's house on another acreage nearby before I got stung. My Grandfather heard me screaming and came running to where I was. He was really pissed off at the hornets but wanted to empower me to deal with bad things. He said first: "I"m going to get some gasoline and we will burn out those hornets that stung you. So, I got far enough back from the hornet's nest he pointed out to me and he went and got gasoline to pour over the nest. He poured the gasoline over the nest and quickly lit it before he got stung too. I still can remember the crackling sound of all those hornet families burning up. Eventually the nest was no more. I think I felt closer to my grandfather that moment than I ever was able to the rest of my life simply because we moved the next year from Seattle to San Diego which was a very different kind of life than living in Seattle. People in San Diego wore Bermuda shorts most of the year and walked everywhere because they weren't worried about being rained on in California very much whereas in Seattle it can rain on almost any given day without warning so people don't walk around out in the open as much unless they bring an umbrella or rain slicker usually.
The point here is that being someone like myself doesn't happen overnight. It took me years to figure out all the things I have figured out like a Scientist by categorizing things into Hypotheses, Theories and Laws.
Otherwise I wouldn't be alive now doing all the things I have done or will do in the future. I have lived a really long time because I learned to be objective very young starting with Whooping cough very young.
After whooping cough I was never silly like many of my friends were from 3 to 20 or more years old. This wasn't me. I was always very serious but also playful. In fact, my friends often called me
"The Funmeister" because I was always thinking of fun things to do always.
Remember when I grew up the Internet, Home Computers, Smartphones and the like didn't exist yet and wouldn't until the 1990s onward. So, from the late 1940s when I was born I would have been 42 in 1990 even without any internet, even though I think I bought an AT IBM Clone in 1987 that ran MS-DOS then and I also bought in Silicon Valley near San Jose, California an Epson color printer and the AT computer for a combined price of about $2,500 then in 1987.
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